Discovery Box

The third issue of Sarah Ahmed’s Selection is a trio of bottles from Portugal’s mountainous hinterland, chosen with summer in mind.

Located between the Douro and Spain, the Trás-os-Montes region is a hotbed of up-and-coming talent who are producing thrillingly fresh, mineral contemporary wines from elevated old field blend parcels.  Picotês Palhete 2023 is made by newcomer António Picotês who started making wine in 2019 from his family’s aged vineyards.  “We have characteristics that allow our wine to be mineral, with pure and elegant fruit” says António, whose love of Cru Beaujolais shines through in this summery, smashable blend of red and wine grapes.  Pop the cork and you won’t stop!

The Dão region has long enjoyed a reputation for elegant white wines that pair beautifully with seafood.  Often drawing comparison with Burgundy, it is a sign of ambition and intent that Carlos Raposo ages World Wide Wine Ideal White Branco 2020 in Puligny Montrachet barrels.  Sourced from 30-60-year-old parcels of classic Dão varieties, notably Encruzado, Bical and Malvasia Fina, it has the silkiest white pear and peach fruit, with complex layers of white blossom, beeswax and gunflint – “a little bit of reduction which I love,” says Carlos. 

‘Barcelo’ meaning string gives its name to an under-the-radar Dão white grape with taut piano string citrine acidity.  With time on lees and bottle age Quinta das Marias ‘Out of the Bottle’ Barcelo Branco 2020 has developed beautifully, becoming “as discreet aromatically as it is vibrant and textured,” says Luís Lopes.   It took our breath away and bagged 18/20 from Julia Harding MW of JancisRobinson.com, who described it as “a triumph.”

Sarah Ahmed