Hugo Mendes 'Lisboa' Branco

Pale gold, much paler than I expected given the time on the skins. Complex aroma of slightly smoky, clean-cut citrus, and a suggestion of citrus peel and pear plus a touch of sour apricot. Even with all this complexity there's also finesse and the wine is more subtle and multifaceted than many a skin-fermented white. There's also an attractive edge of minerally stone dust, which is unusual in this style. Firm but finely tannic texture that reminds me of pear skins, terrific freshness fully meshed with the firm texture. The texture seems to have taken the place of alcohol in providing body and depth since the alcohol is so modest. Deliciously dry on the finish without being aggressively tannic the way some skin-fermented whites can be. Long and mouth-watering with a touch of chamomile tea on the aftertaste. (JH)

Fernão Pires (45%), Arinto (45%) and Vital (10%).

 The grapes were sourced from two chalky clay vineyards in the Alenquer sub-region which, located to the east of the Serra de Montejunto range, is relatively protected from Atlantic influence.  With quality in mind, the Fernão Pires hails from a precocious, later-ripening plot that produces concentrated juice.  This wine was naturally fermented (the Fernão Pires and Arinto co-fermented) and underwent a partial malolactic fermentation, contributing to its creamy texture.  Around 30% of the blend was fermented and aged in used French oak barrels for seven months, imparting complexity and structure.

Serve chilled at 10-12ºC.

Seared scallops, Dressed crab 'Sapateira recheada' or Bacalhau à Brás.