Until the turn of this century, bulk production ruled. Lisboa’s mild maritime climate and relative humidity naturally produces high yields. Save for the miniscule historic DOCs of Bucelas, Colares and Carcavelos, not much set the pulse racing. Today, these gems are being dusted down. And new gems – grapes and terroir - are being unearthed. The temperate Atlantic climate and pockets of Jurassic limestone soil produce racy, mineral whites from local hero Arinto and up-and-coming Vital. In the right hands, reds – typically medium-bodied - can be very good too. New wave lighter styles have seen a niche revival of traditional grapes, notably Castelão, also Tinta Miúda (a.k.a. Graciano).