Home to popular big brands, Península de Setúbal’s warm Mediterranean climate lends itself to fruity, accessible wines made from local, national and international grapes. The terroir is varied too. Wines from the clay and limestone foothills of the Serra da Arrábida (the source of Azeitão DOP cheese) tend to be fresher. Those from sandy soils on the plains near the Sado river are rich and concentrated. Further inland (bordering Alentejo), you can find well-structured wines from schist, limestone, schist and marble soils. Old vine and new wave, lighter styles of Castelão can be very good.