Hugo Mendes Vital

Pale greeny gold. This has a slightly/smoky toasty aroma, suggesting a touch of reduction (in a good way), or maybe it's from the lees. Mendes gets so much complexity without any oak. Very crisp lemon-lime acidity married to intense purity and, surprisingly, no lack of body given the low alcohol. Impressive intensity with a gentle roundness of texture on the finish. The acidity is relatively high but perfectly balanced in a wine that is excitingly vibrant and surprisingly complex when you look at how straightforward the winemaking appears to be (but then Mendes does refer to himself on some of his labels as 'the wizard apprentice'). There's even a certain fulness in the mouth, perhaps from time on the lees or perhaps it is the bottle age that has brought this tertiary richness. This is probably the most full-flavoured Vital I have come across but retains its overall steely freshness. (Julia Harding) 11% Drink 2022 – 2025 17/20 www.JancisRobinson.com

Vital

Spontaneous fermentation, 100% in stainless steel vats at an average temperature of 17ºC. 30% of wine was fermented in used French oak barrels.

Serve cold 7 -9°C