Intense, a cerebral vigneron,João Tavares de Pina completely rethought his approach to making wine in 2014. The “re-boot,” as he dubs it, followed a three-year hiatus,when he made no wine fromQuinta da Boavistaat all. Making wines for others between 2009 and 2011 helped to finance a ‘root and branch’ reform atthe family estate inthe highly regarded Dão sub-region of Penalva do Castelo. The goal? With biodiversity and sustainability in mind, the vineyards are now cultivated organically and focused on local grapes, including a parcel dedicated to lost Dão varieties.